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posted this on April 21, 2010 13:40
Our new PX film range is extremely sensitive to light and temperature. the most crucial point is shielding the picture from light immediately when it gets ejected from the camera.
To get the best results, please do view our AllAbout PX Film page.
Comments
I've found to get a result like this, use a tripod, and immediately place the ejected film under a magazine or something, face down, and wait about two minutes. One of my longest fantasies (with film) has been a monochrome material for my beloved SX-70. I can remember imagining it in the 1970s when I bought my brand-new SX-70 from Jordan Marsh in Boston.
There is simply nothing on earth like having a real, close-focusing, single lens reflex camera with an instant result.
I'm having a hard time with the PX 100.. They don't seem to be doing anything right, although I shield them from light with black plastic, and place it face down immediately. Every time I shoot, I have a thermometer ready so the temperature is exactly right when it develops.. I've tried a lot of temperatures, but nothing works.. Either the shots are bright, overexposed looking, or a strange orange.. Why is that, or what can I do?
The store in where I buy my films, they stand vertically in a very warm shop.. Could that maybe harm the chemicals?
This is the way this chemistry looks
I've had a terrible set of results with my PX70 film.,..and I bought 12 packs of it!!!! I have tried it 4 different cameras now, 600s and SX-70s modified and unmodified and have followed the instructions religiously covering the film directly after exposure and ensuring correct temperatures etc.
I have to say I'm really disappointed as I was hoping to use it all for my wedding in 3 weeks! I'm still waiting to hear back from Impossible about what they can do as I'm £150 out of pocket and have 12 packs of useless film.
:o\
@bonze
I just find it strange that two pictures in one pack didn't work, and if I keep them at 17-24 degrees, they become very bright, and if I heat them to 25-27 they look almost solarized and very orange.. There are a lot of white spots too..
However, the color shade works very well for me.. greens, reds and blues are very visible
I have an SX-70 camera and used PX 70 color shade. It was the first time I have used it and for some reason the pictures are coming out looking pink and or blotchy. The first picture that was blotchy was taken inside. The second picture that was pink was taken outside. I do not have a flash. Does anyone know what I am doing wrong? I am really upset. :{
I am using the PX100 (B&W) film with my SX70 and the film isn't coming out. I thought it was the camera, but I tried loading it with a pack of old polaroid film that I still have and it worked with it. Has anyone had this problem?
Heather, are you covering the picture as soon as it comes out? When I took my first two pictures, they came out like pink and yellow blurs. I didn't know I was supposed to protect the pictures from light because there were no such instructions on the package.
I am also having a lot of problems with my PX 70 Color shade push film. Out of 8 exposures, I have only been able to get two recognizable images, and they are very dark. My brightness is turned all the way up, and I have a lot of light in the room. Is it my camera, the film, or my technique? I am following the instructions about covering it and shielding from light for 4 minutes (have also tried more and less time). I noticed that they just added "Beyond, heat the picture immediately after processing to 40 - 50 °C to improve the color saturation level. " so I guess that is my next experiment. Any further suggestions?
I am getting overwhelming pink tones in my PUSH! film and I'm getting a litte frustrated. The First Flush gave really strong blue tones, but I think that was normal for that batch. I've gotten decent colors a couple times and those are all with natural light. The ones with the pink tones tend to taken with artificial lights. I'm confused because they say that this film is ideal for artificial light because it will help keep the film from turning blue. Should I only shoot it in natural light? I've attached two photos. The first is taken with First Flush, the second with PUSH! Both are taken with the same camera in the same lighting situation. Thoughts?
Hi, I bought the Pioneer 1000 Kit PX that comes with px70 color push! I tried to take a few pics but all i've got is a dark blue nothing...
HI Patricia Goldsmith,
My SX-70 Sonar has the exact same problem as well!!! and i think its not the camera! i reckon its the PX100 film.
I had some shots left from my old polaroid film, so i finished up the last 3 shots , all came out okay. I emptyied the cartridge and loaded the PX100 silver shade and immediately the machine doesn't eject the film!!!
i open up and pull out the cartridge and retried a few time becomes one came out looking all blue like David Colombi's shots. Am so worried its was gonna spoil my SX70. Is there any explaination of this from the IMPOSSSIBLE technical team?
I am suprised at how lousy the film is from this site. My camera did the same thing pretty much as it did with Cubie. It ejected a couple just fine, then started to have problems with it. I know the film is sensitive to light and temperature. Does anyone have any techniques in shielding the film right when it comes out? I do it fairly quickly, but apparently it isn't ever quick enough. I got 2 decent pictures out of the whole pack of 8. I wish I had tips for you Katie, but we are unfortunetly in the same boat. This film is expensive and I am leary of getting any more film from this company. I was thinking about getting the silver shade and trying it out, but after reading Cubie's comments, I don't know if I want to try that one either. What is everyones take on these problems?
I am getting mixed results as well. i dont know what is going wrong. I made sure all the setting was correct and shield the picture as soon as it came out. Still sometimes i get nothing or when i do the image came out abit wrong (missing details).
Any one here has any ideas?
Hi Cubie Leng,
On one of their help pages they called this a "sticky pack" and suggested loading the black card into the film cartridge and taking the cartridge out of the camera. Then, tap the pack like you would a pack of cigarettes and reload. It didn't work for me, but you might want to give it a try if you're still having trouble. I haven't had any luck with it. It still isn't working. Does anyone have any other ideas?
you can find a video that shows how to deal with "sticky film packs" in the tutorials section of our blog here:
http://www.impossibleproject.info/sticky-film-packs
the dark/ blue pictures look like they were heavily underexposed. please take note that when shooting with the Polaroid 1000 camera without an additional flash, you will need very good light conditions, preferably daylight.
this is by far the simplest, most feasible way of shielding i came across:
http://vimeo.com/20367465
hurray for ImPro!
i'm having a similar problem to many of you guys. my images are coming out mainly pink with an almost indistinguishable image. i recently purchased two boxes of the px70 colour push and was really disappointed to find out that you can barely make out a single thing in any of the images. i followed the instructions to the letter and inserted the darkslide just above the rollers so that it was protected from light the instant the polaroid came out the camera, shot on a bright sunny day and developed upside-down at 45 degrees. i experimented with the light/dark wheel in all positions and varied the lighting conditions and still nothing but horrible images. i've had great results from my early sx-70 camera with a variety of different films and am feel really annoyed to have parted with £35 for nothing.
Doesnt the dark slide end up in your shot this way? http://vimeo.com/20367465
I used this and a box, but it makes taking hand held shots really difficult, going to try an old 5x4 film bag next
Hello,
I shielded my images straight out of the camera, there was plenty of light for the images, they were developed upside down for nearly half an hour before I turned them over and saw that they were a mixture of very light green and light pink? Image 1 was taken outside (it's supposed to be a tree, and the streaks are the sunlight-I know) Image 2 was also taken outside, it's my sister pretending to attack the camera, and Image 3 is of baby Zoe indoors with lots of light -- I think I'm most disappointed with this, getting babies to stay still for a polaroid is hard enough to begin with.
I followed the instructions on the site to the T, and there's nothing wrong with my sx70.......does any one have any ideas? I'd rather not waste the remaining 5 images in the camera if I can help it....
I get terrible results as well. Here are mine. The bit of light on the top two are just the reflection from my computer monitor.
your pics look like over-exposed to me, amy.
what film was used? how was the light-weel turned?
sure nothing was blocking the light-sesnsor?
can't make anything of your pics, KC, though.
looks like nothing at all is captured on the frame.
the light wheel was kept in the centre of my sx70 and the film is the px70 ff. nothing was blocking that I could see :S strangeness...
I retested my camera with old film and it was fine (even old polaroid film years out of date is better than the new colour push!!).
I've attached an image of all the shots from two packs of film. I followed the instructions perfectly, temperature, light, shielding with a darkslide etc but they're all awful images. I think Impossible should refund everyone that've bought this terrible film, especially considering how expensive it is. Something must be done as they're getting a bad reputation and loosing customers fast.
Using an SX-70 camera which has always worked perfectly well. Really excited when i received my first pack of SX70 colour push......damn, what a total dissapointment and utter waste of money. Followed all instructions exactly as it says on the site, placing utmost importance on the immediate shielding of the image, super strong light etc etc. 8 images of sheer blue, exactly like Davide Colombi's examples further up the page. At £20 a pack, I was expecting at least some sort of positive result. As if many folk can afford to part with that kind of money so easily. On the back of the pack it mentions refunds for deficiencies in the film. Ill certainly be chasing my money back from them. My only assumption is that indeed, the film was a dud. I was relying on this new film as a viable alternative to the originals, but by God, they've got a long way to go.
Stefano Pia,
Same exact problem here. I wish they would make sure their products actually work before making us waste so much money...
@KC:
I think that the buyers are the testers.
I have had a lot of problem with this film all of my exposures come out with a orange and purple tone to them. I have followed your instructions to the letter using a magazine to shiel the film and even sticking a box on the front of my camera to keep it in a black out and still all my shots come out with an orange and purple tone to them, there is the slitest hint of colour in two of my shots. I have even left the film for a while because you said the film can still expose over time (hence this late reply) but still no joy and still orange and purple!?
I feel robbed almost as I've spent money on something that doesnt work as so many others have
Hi everyone - Like you, I'd like to see "perfect" Impossible films myself. But I'd like to just mention a couple of considerations:
I've produced several photos using the Impossible films that I really enjoy, many of which are posted in the various sample libraries, and I'm confident that in one or two more years, we'll have Impossible films that rival the original Polaroid-manufactured films.
So while I agree with everyone's desire to have a more consistent, perfected film from Impossible, I'm delighted that I can use my long-retired Polaroid cameras once more. For those who like to be part of the process, I'll suggest that you continue to invest in the films. For those of you who want to wait until Impossible has solid replacement films for your cameras, keep watching the sample galleries.
I'm not an Impossible employee, and I know that I'm purchasing films that aren't perfect, yet. But I've had some results that are quite good.
As they say, the PX 70 is a exprementfilm and is not fully developed. Expensive exprement, on my honor. I tested the fuji and it displays a very good result from exposure. It's a little sad that you let a polaroid film on the market before it is complete and gives a good result. And as I said, expensive.
Yours sincerely
Hans
Now, with the new PX70 and the PX600 UV+ Black frame, I have been able to get some perfect and sharp B&W and Color pictures. Now I looked at all my pictures again, and see that they all are dying.. The black frames are getting all blurry and orange, some of them the image is dissapearing, and with the PX680, all the pictures are getting unsharp and blue marks.. I don't know with the PX70 yet..
How can I prevent this? All my 90+ impossible pictures are ruined.
Victor Knötzel, maybe this is a solution : http://www.the-impossible-project.com/dryage/ ?
I usually store my photos in a bag with some silica gel, but there was only one small bag of silica gel for all the photos, so that's probably why.. Didn't think about the dry age kit, ordered 6 of them now.. Hope they can save me now
I have a polaroid 600 one camera and i bought the colour shade and silver shade film that fit 600 cameras for my trip to sierra leone
I put the colour film in and my first shot was an orangey yellow colour, you could see what the image was but it didnt look good. then i took another one and it came out really bright and you could just about make out what it was. I didnt get why cuz i shielded them straight away but then I thought it was maybe because the camera has a flash so it was being double exposed to the sunlight and then the flash. so I put electrical tape over the flash and the next photo came out more visible but then there was a mark over one part that looked like a chemical had ran into it. I took a final photo when I was leaving and when i looked at it the whole picture was a brown colour with blue outsides and it looked again like a chemical, i took two more and they looked exactly the same. Does anyone know what this could be? whether it was because of the humidity in sierra leone or just a dodgy film? very sad I didnt get a single good photo
HI Liz -
I have several Polaroid cameras, including a 600One Ultra, SLR-680 and a 600 One Step. These all work very well with the PX600 films, but let me offer some suggestions:
I hope that these talking points help.
Having similar issues! Girlfriend bought me an SX-70 for my birthday, which is a great piece of photographic kit, and built in my birthyear, with loads of original accessories, and a threepack of PX 70 Color Shade Push, and a pack of Silver Shade Dry Age B&W film.
Very disapointed with both films' performance. The Push comes out overexposed, (dial set to dark, shielding film straight away, left at room temperature) with no color other than a washy pink, which is now becoming green. Silver Shade marginally better, but still over-exposed.
Am perservering, and have just bought some more Silver Shade, some PX70 Color Shade, and some of the Orange Flash that's back on site. Have bought a screw-on ND filter from eBay, and even another SX-70 camera, so willing to experiment further, but if I can't start getting some reasonable results, then I'm out, and I'll look back in a year's time to see if the film stock has improved.
Oh, here's some pics...
Fade to green shows the inage turning green from the top down.
Bottom three of the silvershade show light middle dark camera settings.
Darren - I think that there could be a couple of things going on here. First, it sounds like the light sensor on the camera might be out of calibration.
I've used PX-70 Color Shade Push!, several times, and in my experience, it actually likes more light than less. In fact, if you look in the past newsletters (under the "News" section on this website), there are several articles how to make the most out of the Push! film. Basically, you get the best results by taking photos in well-lit areas, and letting the film develop in a warm environment. Even so, the colors in the Push! film are muted. As for the shifting color, the recommendations are to slice open the chemical pod (on the back of the frame) after 24 hours and let it dry out, standing in an upside-down position.
Do take into consideration that the Push! film was an experimental release, and is no longer in production. Impossible's new PX-70 film is spectacular, but it really does require you to turn the light/dark wheel all the way to the dark side.
Turning to the PX100 Silver Shade, it, too, is classified as an experimental film pack. I've never had to make any adjustments in my camreas' light/dark controls, but it is sensitive to temperatures while developing. If it is too warm, the developed image will be carker and more brown-colored, and if developed cooler, it will be lighter, but more gray-scale.
Again, there is a lot of information about getting the most out of these films, and I've seen some very good results. I'll recommend that you review the archived newsletters at http://shop.the-impossible-project.com/newsletters/ to find out more. There is also a lot of information on the "All About Silver Shade" page (http://shop.the-impossible-project.com/allabout/silvershade/) and the "All About Color Shade" page (http://shop.the-impossible-project.com/allabout/colorshade/).
Good luck,
TRB
Thank you for the advice Tom, do you know if theres any way of saving the film thats already in my camera or do you think it sounds like its ruined? cuz i tried a few photos after the brown one and they just kept coming out messed up :(
Hi Liz -
Yes, there is a technique that can be used to save the remaining unexposed frames in a film pack. I'll refer you to a tutorial on Impossible's site, found at http://blog.the-impossible-project.com/swapping-film-packs-detail.
Good luck!
TRB
BTW, you can also use a dark-slide in the same manner to cover the remaining unexposed frames.
TRB
Thanks a lot Tom, appreciate it also! Hopefully this will work! Thanks a lot for the help! Liz
OK, so got new PX70 color shade film, and a new version of the PX-70 camera to test with - much better!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaplain/6159538517/in/photostream/lig...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaplain/6159538437/in/photostream/lig...
(Orange stock not so hot - still playing with that!)
Tom, is there a specific link to cutting out the chemical pack on a pic? I couldn't find it in support/search.
SX-70, doh!
Nice Photos, Darren. Regarding the orange stock, here's a quick teip: Keep the film chilled until you're ready to use it. Maybe about 45 - 50 degrees.
Best,
TRB
I have been trying to work with the Px70 Push with a SX70, I have one pack + 2 shots left from 3 packs and I have not gotten a single result. Can anyone offer any input?
I have tried:
3. Various temps from 11c - 27c of shooting over the summer.
I have a SX-70 that was purchased 2nd hand and am unsure about the condition of it. But in one photo I can see the outline of someone so I assume the mirrors are ok. Can anyone offer any input I have attached some photos for your review.
On a side note I love my Silvershade film!
did you shield the pictures as they come out of the camera?
that's the most tricky thing!
mm
http://vimeo.com/20367465
Yes I do cover it right away. I have also shot into the box and tried the dark slide idea. I have used the other films without issue, and am aware of the sensitivity of the light to film. Im thinking it might be a defect of the camera itself. Is there anything common to look out for? Should I try the silver shade film in it for kicks?
If you're willing to waste one more photo, go into a completely dark room (or closet) and snap a photo. The shutter will probably stay open for about 20 seconds. when the photo is ejected, immediately put the frame into a foil back or place it between the pages of a book, and let it develop for a full ten minutes. If the image in the test photo is light (like those in your sample photos), I would suggest that the film has been exposed to x-ray radiation, perhaps at an airport.
How did you obtain this film? From a local merchant, a friend, or from Impossible directly?
Maarteen; thanks for the video I have seen it already though.
Tom; I ceritanly will try that. I would not consider it a waste as it is a learning experience!
The film was purchased new from Impossible Project itself. But they were backorderd on the colour so they sent it from a non US warehouse (not sure of what one, I live in Canada).
I have always stored my film in the correct conditions and shot in the correct conditions I have shot over 13 packages of film but these 3 colour packs have not turned out at all. Ill test it tonight when I come home from work.
I have just tried my first pack of PX70 color shade, and am utterly disappointed. I am not sure if this is standard for the film, but I had 0/8 photos develop properly. They have all come out either completely white although I am certain that I am shielding the photo from light exposure immediately after taking the picture. I have followed the instructions per Impossible Project on setting the camera exposure to the darkest setting and am unsure of what else to try. Please advise. Thanks!
I'm not sure how technical you are, or whether you have the right tools to fix the camera. I know of a fellow in the U.S. who does spectacular work on SX-70s and SLR-680s. Look here: http://support.the-impossible-project.com/entries/20519218-repair-services-for-polaroid-cameras.
I think this Push film is positively dreadful. I just blew through 2 packages of film, using 4 different SX-70 cameras, and almost everything came out pink. I tried this film a year or so ago and part of the photo would be blank with the image poking through in other parts of the photo. I have been a great supporter of the Impossible Project and admire what they are trying to achieve. But I shouldn't have to play around shielding photos, experimenting with how long to keep the picture covered, whether to set the dial to darker or lighter etc. Especially at these prices. I'll take a 10 year old package of the old Polaroid over this any day. I understand this is a work in progress, but I am astonished at how far off this film is and how very far away a usable, reliable product really is. Makes me realize just how amazing the original Polaroid film manufacturer was.
HI Steven -
Yes, the Push! film was among the earliest efforts from Impossible, and it needed a lot of coaxing. The details meant flooding the image with light, shielding the film initially from light, and letting it develop in a very warm environment. The new PX70 films produce better (but not yet perfect) color balance, and they tend to over-expose (hence the recommendation to dial-down the brightness control), and still needs to be shielded. But each new version of Impossible's films improve on the next.
I, too, want to see an improved opacifier so that the shileding is less critical. But FWIW, even Polaroid itself recommended shielding its films. Given another year or two, I have every confidence that Impossible will get the opacifier perfected so that shielding won't be as critical, but even in the day of Polaroid's dominence, they still recommended shielding the film initially, especially their 600 films.
In terms of cost, I found an online copy of Popular Science from January of 1973, which states that the cost of a pack of SX-70 film in 1973 was $6.90 which, in today's dollars is a bit over $35.26 per pack of 10 frames). So each photo taken back then has a price of $3.53 per frame in today's money. Impossible's current PX70 film is priced at $23.49 (for 8 frames), so the price per frame works out to be $2.94 per frame. Of course, you can get better pricing if you order the PX70 three-pack, but in terms of film costs, people were paying more per frame for Polaroid's film back in the day, compared to the cost today using Impossible's film.
Here's the link to onilne copy of Popular Science, January '73: http://books.google.com/books?id=fkktZ45KH3UC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false
There several online resources for calculating adjusted costs over the years. I used this one: http://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/cpicalc.pl
BTW, in my experience, I've bought a few packs of ten-year-old Polaroid films, but the chemical pods were dried out, or the batteries didn't work. Films that I bought with expiration dates in 2005 sometimes worked, but the colors were badly faded.
Thanks!
TRB
i just don't get how fuji can get their opacifier to work and TIP can't ...
I agree, Maarten. Perhaps Fuji's opacifier won't work properly with the film base used by Impossible. Or perhaps it's patented or there are licensing issues. It would be nice to have a better understanding, though.
i already set my sx70 light meter to the darkest place but how come the Px7- film came out a over exporse pic?
TWS, do you sufficiently shield the picture for 3 to 4 minutes?
The current PX70 stock seems to be be about 300 asa I reckon, I use the 600ASA ND filter on my SX-70 then set the wheel to lighten a bit, I shade with the IP shade for the SX-70 then remove with a darkslide and put in my shirt pocket to keep warm if in colder weather.
I hope this help
maarten, yeap. i shield it with a darkslide
TWS, exactly which camera model are you using? From your earlier posts, I believe you wrote that you are using PX600 Silver Shade and a 600 camera, but which model?
Along with shielding the film, I'll also mention that temperature affects the image. If the film is too cool, it will develop as if it is over exposed. If it's too warm, it will develop in Sepia-shaded tones.
Have a look at this Blog article and watch the video that is mentioned in it.: http://blog.the-impossible-project.com/dr-love-s-film-tips-cold-weather
Regards,
Tom
TOM,
This one is taken by sx70.
The shutter always taking long time to take the picture even in a bright sunny day.
How im going to solve it?
I had an SX70 Polaroid 1000 where the shutter often went slow, it was the lighten darken pot that was faulty, I got rid of the camera, but they can be fixed
OK... If I understand this correctly, you are using an SX-70 (one of the folding models) and PX600 Silver Shade film?
I want to be sure that my understanding is correct, because the original SX-70 models are designed to use ASA 100 film, and PX600 film is ASA 600. As such PX600 films are are two-and-a-half times more sensitive to light than what the camera is designed to use. Original SX-70 cameras should use PX70 color film or PX100 monochrome film. Although you can use PX600 films, you'll need to either use a neutral density filter on the lens of the SX-70, or use Impossible's film pack filter.
So would you please clarify?
tom,
Nope. This photo im using sx70 with the PX70 film.
Thanks, TWS.
OK, if you're using an original SX-70 (chrome-and-leather) or an SX-70 Sonar (chrome and black leather), with the PX70 film and it is consistently over-exposing even when you dial the exposure-compensation wheel all the way to "dark", then it's probably either a failed light sensor, or it's out of calibration.
NOTE: be aware that when you change the exposure wheel to the darkest position and you close-up your SX-70, the camera resets the exposure compensation wheel to the middle position. When you 'expand' the camera, the exposure compensation wheel needs to be returned to its darkest setting.
I know people in the USA who can test and make repairs, if it helps.
Tom
Hi George -
May I suggest that you submit a request by going here: http://support.the-impossible-project.com/requests/new
I'm a consumer, like you are, but if you use the link above and submit a request, it will be viewed by the Impossible staff.
Regards,
Tom
Hi guys, I'm actually quite annoyed about how my PX680 came out :/ Does anyone know what went wrong? I followed all the instructions on covering the film once it got ejected!! I have 4 more packs of films... I have no idea what to do with it.
I'm using a Polaroid 600 One Step and the PX 680 Color Shade / First Flush. All three polaroids were taken outdoors with sunny conditions.
dear chays,
please send an email containing scans of your images and the exact film and camera type used to service@the-impossible-project.com
we will then be able to assist you.
best wishes,
andi hentschel
Hi, I bought PS600 films for my Sun600 and the battery doesn't seem to charge even after like a min.. Is it normal? Do you need to take all 8 shots in one go? If you leave it for a day does the battery run out? How do I fix this?
Thanks
Romi
Hi, I bought PS600 films for my Sun600 and the battery doesn't seem to charge even after like a min.. Is it normal? Do you need to take all 8 shots in one go? If you leave it for a day does the battery run out? How do I fix this?
Thanks
Romi
Hi Mel -
In my experience, the battery life is quite long. However, I have received one back of film that had a dead battery, and Impossible replaced the film back.
I'm not sure if I'm addressing your question. Could you go into more detail?
Thanks!
TRB
I just bought my first pack of px70 color shade for my sx70 (1000) and when I tried it for 4 times, the picture turned out pink and there's a very dark stripe in the middle. I covered it with a darkslide and even tried to shoot it in a box but it still gives me the same results. How do i fix this?
Philaine -
See this post: http://support.the-impossible-project.com/entries/20448763-weird-co...
Does the "dark stripe" look like the examples in the discussion? Can you scan some of your photos and post an example?
As for the pinkish color, temperature can affect the tones. On the back of the photos, along the top of the chemical pod, there is a ten-digit number on the left side. Can you post the ten-digit number? This will tell me when the film was manufactured and the film type.
Thanks!
TRB
No, it's darker. 0811447024 If it's like 32 deg. celsius, what should i do?
Thanks for the sample images. They're different than the issues described in earlier posts. Those earlier discussions had vertical strips (running from top-to-bottom), and the stripe in your example are horizontal. Further, in the earlier examples, none of the stripes were as dark as the almost black horizontal stripe in the middle.
My hunch is that your film was exposed to excessive heat, far higher than the 32C (90F) that you mentioned. Impossible recommends storing the film between 5C an 18C, and shoot around (21C). See this post by Support:
http://support.the-impossible-project.com/entries/20924597-my-image...
I noticed that in the areas above and below the very dark horizontal stripe, the image is very pinkish. This leads me to believe that at some point (and possibly before you purchased the film), that the films were exposed to temperatures well above the recommended storage recommendations.
If this was bought at a retail store, and the film pack was on a shelf, perhaps below the film was a fluorescent lamp or some other heat source. This could possibly explain the very dark horizontal stripe, and the overall pink color of the remainder of the photos.
I would suggest that you contact the seller. I would also recommend that you contact Impossible by submitting a request at the Submit a request link at the top of the page. Be sure to include copies of your images.
Thank you so much for the information!! So I can't do anything about it now that it's already loaded in my polaroid?
Probably not, PJ. If it wasn't stored correctly, it was damaged before you put the film in the camera. However, you can put a dark-slide (or perhaps an already-exposed frame) back into the cartridge, and remove the pack and put it in another Polaroid to take a few more shots. If the new photos exhibit the same problem, then it means that it's the film and not the original camera.
That said, I have high confidence that this is a film problem, not a camera problem.